If your beer is foaming, it is "out of balance." Use this logic to diagnose the issue:
Slow and Foamy? Increase the pressure. (The CO2 is "breaking out" of the liquid in the lines because there isn't enough pressure to keep it dissolved).
Fast and Foamy? Lower the pressure or increase line length. (The beer is hitting the glass with too much velocity and turbulence).
A. Temperature (The Foundation)
Temperature is the most critical variable. Beer is most stable at 38°F (3.3°C).
The Rule: The warmer the beer, the more pressure is required to keep the CO2 in solution. If your kegerator is set to 45°F, you will almost certainly have foaming issues because the required PSI to keep the beer carbonated will be too high for a standard tap setup.
Verification: Measure the liquid temperature of a poured beer with a calibrated thermometer. Do not rely solely on the digital display, which measures air temperature.
B. Regulator Pressure vs. Keg Pressure
Regulator Pressure: This is the PSI you set to maintain carbonation and push the beer. Most ales at 38°F require 10–12 PSI.
Keg Pressure (Head Pressure): This is the actual pressure inside the keg. If you recently "burst carbed" a keg at 30 PSI and then turned your regulator down to 12 PSI to serve, the keg is still at 30 PSI. The higher keg pressure will win, resulting in a "fast and foamy" geyser.
The Fix: If the keg is over-pressurized, shut off the gas, pull the Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) on the keg to vent it completely, then turn the regulator back on to your serving pressure (e.g., 12 PSI).
C. Line Length & Resistance (The Brake)
Think of your beer line as the "brake" for your beer. The line provides friction (resistance) to slow the beer down so it enters the glass gently.
KOMOS Specifics: KOMOS kegerators use EVABarrier 4mm ID x 8mm OD Tubing (SKU: D1717). This tubing is much higher resistance than standard vinyl.
The Ideal Length: For a standard 10–12 PSI setup at 38°F, MoreBeer recommends 5.5 to 6.5 feet (1.7–2 meters) of 4mm EVABarrier line per tap.
Relationship: If you increase your pressure (to carbe a beer higher), you must increase your line length to compensate for that extra push.
D. The Tower Fan (Eliminating First-Pour Foam)
If only your first pour is foamy but the second is perfect, your draft tower is too warm.
How it works: Cold air stays at the bottom of the fridge. Without a fan, the beer in the lines inside the tower warms up, causing CO2 to break out into bubbles.
The Fix: Ensure your KOMOS Internal Tower Fan is running and that the white flexible hose is tucked all the way up into the tower to blow cold air directly against the shanks.
Replacement Part: If your fan has failed, use the Draft Tower Fan Kit (SKU: D1328).
E. Foaming Troubleshooting Summary Table
| Symptom | Primary Cause | Solution |
| Slow flow, big bubbles in line | Pressure too low | Increase PSI on your KOMOS Regulator until bubbles disappear. |
| Fast flow, rocket-like pour | Pressure too high | Vent keg via PRV; lower regulator PSI. If still fast, install longer EVABarrier Line (SKU: D1717). |
| Only the first pour is foam | Warm tower | Check tower fan; install a Neoprene Tower Sleeve (SKU: KL00819). |
| Beer is 42°F or warmer | Temperature too high | Lower the digital controller set point to 38°F. |
| Small bubbles starting at a fitting | Air leak/Obstruction | Check Duotight fittings; ensure they are pushed in fully. Use Keg Lube (SKU: BE430) on O-rings. |
Our Promise of Authenticity: We use AI tools to help us organize information faster, so our team can spend more time doing what they do best: brewing, winemaking, and answering your calls. While a machine may have helped draft these notes, a real-life brewer edited and verified every step to ensure your next batch is a success.