This guide is designed to help you set up, maintain, and repair your KOMOS Kegerator. For all replacement parts, please refer to the specific MoreBeer.com part numbers provided.

1. Initial Setup & Proper Placement

To ensure your unit functions correctly from day one, follow these critical setup steps:

  • Settling Period: After unboxing or moving the unit, let it sit upright for at least 24 hours before plugging it in to allow the compressor oils to settle.

  • Airflow Requirements: Unless you have an outdoor/built-in rated model with front-facing ventilation, the unit requires approximately 4 inches (10cm) of clearance on all sides and the back to allow for proper heat dissipation.

  • Leveling: Use the adjustable feet or locking casters to ensure the unit is level, which prevents door seal issues and drainage problems.

  • Draft Line Length: For a perfect pour with minimal foam, it is recommended to cut your EVABarrier beverage lines to a length of 5.5–6.5 feet (1.7–2 meters).

2. Troubleshooting Common Issues

Unit Not Cooling

  • Power Check: Verify the temperature controller is lit and the interior fan is spinning.

  • Compressor Test: Feel the compressor in the back. If it is hot to the touch but the unit is not cooling, there may be a compressor failure or a coolant leak.

  • Short-Cycling: If the compressor clicks on and then immediately off, you likely need a Replacement Starter Relay (SKU: KG401CR).

  • Ice Buildup: Check the back internal wall for excessive ice. This can be caused by a faulty door seal or leaving the door open. Defrost the unit completely before restarting.

Temperature & Display Errors

  • Inaccurate Reading or EE error: If the display temperature does not match a calibrated liquid thermometer, the Thermistor Probe (SKU: KG413) may be failing.

  • Unresponsive Buttons: If you cannot adjust the temperature or the display is erratic, you may need a new Keypad Membrane (SKU: KG430) or Temp Control Circuit Board (SKU: KG412).

  • Freezing Kegs: If the unit continues to cool regardless of the set point, the main Circuit Board (SKU: KG411) or the Control Board (SKU: KG412) is likely stuck in the "on" position.

Unusual Noises

  • "Bed-In" Period: It is normal for the compressor to be slightly louder during the first few weeks of operation.

  • Knocking/Popping: This is typically caused by the expansion and contraction of internal plastic parts or ice shifting.

  • Fan Rattling: If the interior fan makes a loud clicking or grinding noise, it may be obstructed by ice or require a Replacement Air Circulation Fan (SKU: KG300F).

3. Maintenance & Repairs

Essential Maintenance

  • Line Cleaning: Clean your beer lines every two weeks or whenever a keg is kicked to prevent mold and "off" flavors.

  • Faucet Care: KOMOS units come with NukaTap Stainless Steel Faucets. Ensure the forward-sealing mechanism remains clean so it doesn't stick.

  • Leak Prevention: Use CIP Film Keg Lube (SKU: BE430) on all O-rings and gaskets to ensure an airtight seal.

Essential Parts List (MoreBeer.com)

Part Description

MoreBeer SKU

Purpose

Starter Relay Kit

KG401CR

Fixes compressor "clicking" or failure to start.

Temp Control Board

KG412

Replaces faulty display or unresponsive buttons.

Thermistor Probe

KG413

Corrects inaccurate temperature readings.

Air Circulation Fan

KG300F

Replaces noisy or dead internal circulation fan.

Duotight Sanke Adapter

DUO104

Connects commercial keg couplers to EVABarrier line.

Duotight Ball Lock

DUO106

Connects homebrew keg disconnects to EVABarrier line.

Tower Cooler Kit

KL00819

Reduces first-pour foam by keeping the tower icy cold.

Draft Multi-Tool

D1000

7-in-1 tool for shanks, faucets, and Duotight fittings.


4. Additional Information

  • Gas Setup: Ensure you use a regulator gasket between the CO2 tank and the KOMOS Dual Gauge Regulator.

  • Tower Insulation: If you experience "first pour foam," consider adding a KOMOS Tower Sleeve (3 in. or 4.5 in.) to better insulate the stainless steel tower.

  • Sanke vs. Ball Lock: Remember that commercial kegs require a Sanke Coupler, while homebrew kegs use Ball Lock Disconnects. Both can be easily swapped using the Duotight push-to-connect system.