This guide is designed for MoreBeer! customers looking to build a professional-grade keezer. By selecting the right hardware from the start, you can ensure a leak-free system that pours perfect pints every time.

1. The Collar & Hinge Strategy

The Collar is the wooden frame between the freezer and the lid. It’s the backbone of your build.


A. Measuring & Cutting

  • Hinge Placement/Wood Selection: Measure your freezer’s original hinge height before buying lumber. If you match the wood thickness (e.g., a true 2x6 or 2x8) to the hinge size, you can easily mount the hinges to the collar.

*This prevents the hinge from overlapping onto the freezer body, meaning you don't have to drill into the metal casing (avoiding coolant lines) and the modification remains 100% reversible.

  • "Picture Frame" Cut: Measure the top rim of your freezer. Cut your four boards with 45° mitered corners for a clean look, or use simple butt joints if you plan on adding a decorative "fascia" (outer layer) of hardwood later.

*Ensure the inner dimensions of your collar match the inner opening of the freezer so you don't lose clearance for your kegs.


B. Securing the Collar

  • Remove Lid: Chest freezer lids are often heavy and the hinges are spring-loaded. Always have one person hold the hinge/lid firmly while the other unscrews to prevent the lid from crashing down or the hinges from snapping back and causing injury.

  • No-Drill Attachment: Do not screw the wood into the freezer. Instead, use a high-quality adhesive like Loctite PL Premium or silicone sealant to glue the wood collar to the top rim of the freezer. This creates an airtight seal and is incredibly strong. Always follow recommended curing times.

  • Weigh Down and Cure: With the glue or silicone fresh, use heavy objects to help weigh down the lid and ensure the collar is snug when the "glue" dries. Distribute weight as evenly as possibly and allow to cure

  • Reattached Hinges: With the collar secured and cured, screw the hinges back into place on the wooden collar. 

  • Insulation: Glue 1-inch rigid foam insulation to the inside of the wood to match the R-value of the freezer walls.

2. Shanks & Faucets

The shank passes through your collar to connect your beer line to your faucet. You have two primary ways to rig these:


A. Standard Hose Barb (The Classic)

  • Setup: Uses a standard Stainless Steel Shank (D1247), and secure 5ft of 3/16" ID Draft Tubing (D1711A) with Worm Clamp (H950) or  Stepless Clamp (H1001).

Pros: Extremely secure and traditional.

Cons: Requires tools (clamp pliers or driver) to assemble or change lines; difficult to swap out hose lengths once clamped.


B. Duotight Push-Fittings (The Modern Standard)

  • Setup: Thread a Stainless Faucet Shank w/ Duotight Adapter (D1258), and secure with 8mm OD x 4mm ID EVABarrier Tubing (D1717A). 

Pros: Tool-free assembly. You simply push the EVABarrier into the fitting for a high-pressure, leak-proof seal that makes cleaning or line replacement a breeze.

3. Gas Management & Manifolds

Keeping your CO2 tank outside the keezer saves space and makes monitoring your gauges easier.


A. Standard Gas Pass Through

  • Simple Drilled Hole: Match your gas tubing OD with a drill bit.

  • Glue In Place: Use the same adhesive or silicone from the collar mounting to glue the line in place

  • Optional Quick Disconnect: Use Beer & Gas Quick Disconnect (H550) on the outside tubing to your CO2 regulator to easily disconnect the tank from the keezer.

Pros: Low profile and inexpensive.

Cons: Semi-Permanent assembly that might not look as clean.


B. "Pro Trim" Gas Pass Through

  • Pass Through Shank (D1921 or D1923): "Beer Thread" on both ends unlike Draft Shanks.

  • Tailpiece Adapters: Use either Hose Barbed Tailpiece (D1721, D2536) or Duotight Tailpiece (DUO104) on the inside to route to kegs. 

  • Sanke to Gas-In Ball Lock Adapter (D1746): Use on the outside for a quick disconnect, with gas ball lock coupler.

  • Pros: Professional look that lets you mount the CO2 tank/regulator board outside for quick access and easily disconnect when needed around your home brewery.

Cons: Extra hardware to invest when a simple drilled hole and silicone can offer similar results, but not as pretty!

Pros: This creates a gas "input port" on the outside of your keezer. You can plug/unplug your gas source using a standard grey disconnect. Inside, use KegLand Plastic Gas Manifolds (D1711) with DuoTight fittings for a modular, corrosion-resistant distribution hub.

4. Environment & Finishing Touches

  • The Magnetic Drip Tray: Use strong neodymium magnets to mount your drip tray to the freezer skin. This avoids drilling holes and makes it easy to remove for cleaning.

  • Air Circulation: Add a small computer fan inside. This prevents temperature stratification (warm air at the top, cold at the bottom), which ensures your first pour isn't all foam.

  • Moisture Control: A rechargeable silica gel dehumidifier (like an Eva-Dry) is essential to prevent mold and "swampy" smells in the airtight freezer environment.