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Few things are as frustrating as being mid-mash or ready to whirlpool and realizing your brewing pump is humming along but nothing is moving. Most brewing pumps are centrifugal pumps. While they are incredibly durable, they have one drawback: they are not self-priming.

If your pump has stopped moving liquid, follow this step-by-step troubleshooting guide to get your brew day back on track.

1. Gravity is Your Friend: Pump Placement

Centrifugal pumps cannot "suck" liquid from a vessel; they must be fed by gravity.

• The Rule: Your pump must be physically lower than the source vessel (the kettle or mash tun).

• The Check: Ensure the pump head is at the lowest point in your tubing array. If the pump is level with or higher than the liquid in your kettle, it will never prime.

2. The Art of Priming (Removing Air)

Air is the natural enemy of a brewing pump. If there is a bubble trapped in the pump head, the impeller will just spin the air around (cavitation) without moving any liquid.

• The Fix: With the pump OFF, open the "In" valve on your kettle. Let the liquid flow down into the pump.

• The "Burp": If you have a RipTide pull the integrated relief valve to let trapped air escape. For other pumps, briefly open the "Out" valve or slightly loosen the output hose fitting until a bit of liquid trickles out. This "burps" the air out of the head.

3. Check Your Flow (Valves In and Out)

It sounds simple, but it happens to the best of us.

• Inlet Valve: Always ensure your kettle valve is 100% open. Never restrict the flow on the "In" side of the pump, as this causes cavitation and can damage the motor.

• Outlet Valve: Ensure the valve on the "Out" side of the pump (or your whirlpool arm/chiller) is open.

• The Check: If you are using a flow-control valve, make sure it hasn't been accidentally bumped shut.

4. Inspect for Kinks

High-temp silicone tubing (like our Half-Inch Silicone Tubing (H985)) is wonderfully flexible, but it can kink if it gets too warm or is draped over a sharp edge.

• The Check: Trace your lines from the kettle to the pump and from the pump to the destination. Ensure there are no "pinch points" or sharp bends that are restricting the flow.

5. Dealing with a Clogged Pump Head

If you are brewing a heavily hopped IPA or had a "stuck mash," debris like hop matter or grain husks can jam the impeller.

• The Fix: If the pump is humming but the shaft isn't spinning, you likely have a clog.

• Cleaning: You may need to disassemble the pump head. Most stainless steel heads can be opened by removing four screws. Clear out any hop "sludge" or grain, rinse, and reassemble.

6. The "Power Cycle" and Thermal Reset

Most brewing pumps have a thermal protection switch. If the pump gets too hot (from running dry or a jam), it will shut itself off to prevent the motor from burning out.

• The Fix: Unplug the pump from the power source. Let it sit for 5–10 minutes to cool down.

• Restart: After it has cooled and you have verified there is no clog, plug it back in. This "power cycle" often resets the internal safety and gets the motor spinning again.

Troubleshooting Checklist