Stainless steel is durable, but it isn’t bulletproof. To prevent rust and pitting, you must maintain its passive layer, the microscopic shield that protects the iron in the steel from oxidizing.
1. The Enemies of Stainless
Chlorine/Bleach: Never use bleach. It causes "pitting" (permanent pinholes).
Steel Wool: Never use carbon steel pads. They leave tiny iron particles that turn into rust spots.
Standing Water: Minerals and salts in drying water cause "beer stone" and scaling.
2. Common Issues & Quick Fixes
| Issue | What it is | The Fix |
| Rust Spots | Surface contamination. | Scrub with a nylon pad and an acid (Star San or Bar Keepers Friend). |
| Beer Stone | Hard mineral/protein scale. | Use an Acidic Cleaner (specifically Beer Stone Remover). |
| Heat Tint | Rainbow/blue marks on the bottom. | Wipe with Bar Keepers Friend and a soft cloth. |
| Pitting | Permanent corrosion (holes). | Prevention only. Rinse and dry gear immediately. |
3. How to "Passivate" (Restore the Shield)
If you've scrubbed your gear or see flash rust, you need to restore the protective layer:
Deep Clean: Remove all oils/grime with PBW.
Acid Treatment: Apply a high-concentration acid (1oz Star San in 1gal of water, or a Bar Keepers Friend paste).
Air Dry: This is the most important step! Let the gear air dry for 24 hours. Oxygen reacts with the chromium to rebuild the "stainless" barrier.
4. Pro Maintenance Tips
Soft Touch: Only use Nylon pads or soft cloths such as our CE27 for polished stainless or Scrub Daddy on brewing kettles.
Dissolve Salts: Never let brewing salts (like Calcium Chloride) sit undissolved on the bottom of your kettle.
Dry it Out: Store gear upside down or wipe it dry. If it stays wet, it can corrode.